Roar Africa

Exploring Africa Since 1688

Thursday, March 26, 2009

"Rain Dance", Great Escape, Business Traveler Magazine

** Hot off the press **
The new issue of Business Traveler Magazine (April 2009) contains the following Great Escape article by Adam Rodriguez on his safari in South Africa. The safari was arranged by Roar Africa. Click the image on the right for the original or read the full text reproduced below.



Rain Dance

Adam Rodriguez enjoys the animal parade prompted by a good rainfall in South Africa.

In South Africa, there are few things as important as water. Valued by man and beast alike, a good rainstorm brings everyone together. While I had spent an afternoon chatting with the other guests on a rained-out safari a few months prior to this trip, I was fortunate enough to arrive at Lion Sands Ivory Lodge shortly after the soaking rain, and thus able to reap the benefits without losing a day in the park.

Of course, a good rainstorm doesn’t just bring people together in idle chatter. Like a favorite neighborhood bar for the locals, the swollen river behind my private villa at the exclusive, six-unit Ivory Lodge attracted all sorts of nearby wildlife, and I was even lucky enough to see plenty from the comfort of my own patio. One afternoon, as I took my daily dip in my private heated pool, I spied a mother hippo, with her baby in tow, waddling out of the river. Later on, a handful of elephants happened to amble toward the riverbank as a Lion Sands sommelier taught me about the wine he had just poured.

Adding to the daily parade of animals was the gracious hospitality of the entire staff. Friendly and easygoing, there was no request too big or too small. Not only did I get the rare bonus of an elephant spotting during my wine tasting, but the experience was extended to twice the scheduled time, at no additional cost. Even with a menu of four courses at every meal, each more tantalizing than the next, the kitchen accommodated my obscure appeal for ostrich steak and watermelon juice without a moment’s hesitation.

The villa itself was as modern and elegant as any urban retreat, with ebony and ivory motifs, a king-sized bed draped in mosquito netting, indoor/outdoor showers, and a full-sized refrigerator, stocked with standardsized bottles of liquor, juices and snacks. But I hardly had room for any of these snacks or drinks—tempting as they were—as our sunset drives included cocktails and appetizers, perhaps my favorite part of the day, especially with so many animals out enjoying the rehydrated, post-rainfall evening.

Of course, it’s worth mentioning that the rain isn’t always a blessing on this strip of land. Built along the Sabie River, which cuts its way through South Africa’s famous Kruger National Park in the northeast, excessive rains demolished the 70-year-old camp just over eight years ago. However, the fourthgeneration owners were quick to rebuild, Great Escape lion sands ivory lodge reinventing it as a top-end luxury retreat on nearly 10,000 acres.

A notable addition to Lion Sands’ River Lodge and Ivory Lodge properties is two tree houses, which offer all of the amenities of a luxury room, with nothing between you and the stars but a thin layer of mosquito netting covering the bed. Guests are escorted to the tree house at sunset for Champagne and an al fresco dinner, and then retire beneath the night sky, lulled to sleep by the nocturnal sounds of the surrounding bush.

I’ve been on numerous African safaris, and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend this lodge to any of my friends. I had a memorable time, thanks to the well thought-out and lavish facilities. While the rains may have once destroyed a cherished family camp, the same rains paved the way for its truly remarkable rebirth as Lion Sands—once again, bringing everyone together.

DETAILS

Lion Sands Ivory Lodge, Sabie Sands Game, Reserve, Mpumalanga, South Africa; tel.+27-11-484-9911; www.lionsands.com/lodges/ivory.php

For booking from the U.S., contact Deborah Calmeyer at Roar Africa, tel. 877-762-7237; e-mail deb@roarafrica.com.

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Monday, March 23, 2009

Pink (albino) elephant caught on camera in Botswana

A wildlife photographer, Mike Holding, captured a pink baby elephant on camera in Botswana. The pink elephant calf was amongst a herd of about 80 elephants in Botswana's Okavango Delta. It is thought to be an albino elephant. The albino condition is rare in African elephants and unfortunately this youngster may face blindness and skin problems due to it's condition. It will have to seek shade which will be somewhat easier in the Okavango delta than in many parts of Africa. Apparently it already appears to be seeking the shade of it's mother. More on this story from the BBC here.

It's seems there's a lot of news about elephant calves at the moment. See our previous post from Lion Sands about an elephant birth.

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Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Incredible Safari Sighting: Elephant birth

Yesterday our friends at Lion Sands witnessed a wonderful and very private affair: an elephant mother giving birth to a healthy calf.

Elephants seek a secluded place to give birth and are accompanied by other females to act as guards. The tiny calves (av. 120kg and 90cm at shoulder) are subject to predation and will stay very close to the mother even walking under her belly and between her legs. The photos show the protective lager the elephants formed for the occasion as well as the tiny new addition safely ensconced between them.

Photos with permission. For the full story, more about elephant gestation, and additional pictures visit Lion Sands Safari Journal.

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Friday, March 13, 2009

72 HOURS/CAPE TOWN, Worth Magazine

So you have just 72 hours in Cape Town and you're wondering what to do? May we suggest extending your stay? Whether or not that's an option have a look at this article just published in the Feb/March 2009 issue of Worth magazine. It is packed with insider tips. Roar Africa was proud to play a part in the creation of the piece and thankful to be mentioned.


The full article is reproduced here as well as a scanned original version. (click to enlarge).










*****
72 HOURS/CAPE TOWN
An Insider's Guide to Three Memorable Days

THE LATE NEW YORK TIMES reporter R.W Apple Jr., who may have been the paper's most widely traveled journalist, was infatuated with Cape Town. Its bounty, as he saw it, included "a seacoast that rivals Maine's and Big Sur's, a harbor that rivals Gibraltar's and Hong Kong's and Rio's, and what must surely be the most beautiful vineyards in the world." Layer onto those extraordinary foundations a city that has been transformed in recent years by a newly unleashed creativity and cosmopolitan flair.

Though there's beauty everywhere, there are also reminders of the country's brutal past (apartheid was only abolished in 1990). As the city gears up to host the World Cup in 2010, new hotels and stadiums are being built, but shantytowns remain. Cape Town is a study in contrasts. Come for the glamour and beauty but also to witness the complexities of modern Africa.

WHERE TO STAY
My top choice for couples is Ellerman House (180 Kloof Road, Bantry Bay; +27.21.430.3200; ellerman.co.za), a former private residence with fewer than a dozen rooms. Set on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the property includes a fabulous restaurant, spa and gardens. Best room: the contemporary Ellerman villa, with three bedrooms and a private chef. For families or those in a larger group, I recommend the historic Mount Nelson Hotel (76 Orange St.; +27.21.483.1000; mountnelson.co.za), run by Orient-Express Hotels, which has recently been renovated and sits at the foot of Table Mountain and close to the waterfront, Another reliable high-end choice is the harbor-facing Cape Grace (West Quay Rd., Victoria & Alfred Waterfront; +27. 21.410.7100; capegrace.com), which has a sleek, modern atmosphere and excellent service.

DAY 1

A great way to get your bearings is to hire a driver to show you around the peninsula. (Roar Africa provides wonderful guides and custom itineraries. 877.762.7237; roarafrica.com.) The center of Cape Town is nestled at the base of Table Mountain. To the north lies the popular commercial waterfront district, to the northeast are the legendary vineyards, and to the southwest are beachfront communities. As you wind your way down the Atlantic coast to Cape Point (Africa's southernmost tip), you'll pass lovely houses and possibly a troop of baboons crossing the road. The Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve (+27.21.782.9356), known locally as Cape Point, boasts hiking trails and incredible cliff-top views of the coast. Along with baboons, the reserve features hundreds of plant species and more than 250 species of birds, several species of antelope and the Cape Mountain zebra.

On your way back from Cape Point, have lunch at The Food Barn (Noordhoek Farm Village; +27.21.789,1390; thefoodbarn.co.za) in Noordhoek. One of Cape Town's most revered chefs, Franck Dangereux, opened this restaurant as a place for families to enjoy fantastic food in an unpretentious yet glorious setting. It's too far from Cape Town to come for dinner, but perfect for a road-trip lunch stop. Adventurous types can take a gallop along the beach at Noordhoek Beach Horse Rides, (+27. 82. 774.1191; horseriding. co.za). Be sure to stop at Cape Boulders Beach (False Bay Coast near Simonstown), home to the continent's only penguin colony.

Start your evening with sundowners, as cocktails are called, at the Cape Grace Hotel's Bascule Bar (+27.21.410.7238; capegrace.com) on the Marina. This elegant whiskey and cigar bar hosts great African jazz bands, and is particularly lively on Fridays. A little mellower, the Radisson Hotel (Beach Road, Granger Bay; +27.21.441. 3000; radisson.com/capetownza), has a spacious deck right on the ocean, providing unobstructed views of the sunset and cushy lounge chairs. Farther down the beachfront road is Wakame (Mouille Point; +27.21.433.2377), another fabulous option for cocktails or dinner, also right on the water. It has a trendy outdoor lounge, hip crowd and excellent sushi. For something really low-key, join the beach crowd at La Med (Glen Country Club, Victoria Rd.; +27.21.438.5600; lamed.co.za}, between Clifton and Camps Bay. Here, you can sip cocktails and watch paragliders jump off Signal Hill and land on the football field in front of you. Among the top restaurants to choose from: Ginja (121 Castle St.; +27.21.426.2368) and Haiku (comer if Burg and Church St.; +27.21.424.7000; bukhara.com/haiku). Both serve excellent fusion food. There is also Salt (Ambassador Hotel, 34 Victoria Road, Bantry Bay +27.21.439.7258), which boasts Cape Town's most dazzling restaurant location: it's perched above the sea and rocks of Bantry Bay.The emphasis is on fish, with Cape Malay influences in the curried sauces and relishes. Reserve in advance and request one of the window tables overlooking the bay.

  • WHEN TO GO:The best time to visit is February and March. December and January are peak tourist season, but the hotels, restaurants and beaches are crowded, and the weather is not as reliably sunny as it will be a month or two later.
  • GETTING AROUND:If you rent a car, make sure that you feel comfortable driving on the left side of the road. Also, to park downtown, you will have to pay uniformed parking attendants who patrol their particular beat with small handheld meters. When you return to your car, the attendant will deduct the appropriate amount-about $1 an hour.
  • TIP: Restaurant kitchens generally close around 10 p.m., so don't plan on eating too late.

DAY 2

If the skies are blue and the southeaster wind is not blowing, take the cable car up Table Mountain. Grab some coffee and a muffin at Vida e Caffe (34 Kloof St.; +27.21.426.0627) for breakfast with an unforgettable view. Go early, as the cable car lines can be long. (Bring a sweater or jacket, as the summit can be chilly.) When you descend, pay a visit to the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens at the foot of the mountain (Rhodes Drive, Newlands; +27.21.799.8783; sanbi.org/framnes/kirstfram.htm), which comprise nearly 90 acres of gardens celebrating indigenous flora. Pathways wend around gardens, streams and rolling lawns. A huge variety of birds inhabit the gardens and the sweeping views from the upper slopes are spectacular.

Two fascinating ways to explore the country's history are the District Six Museum (25A Buitenleant St.; 27.21.466.7200; district six.co.za) and Robben Island +27.21.413.4200; robben-island.org.za). District Six bears testament to the apartheid government's brutal destruction of a mixed-race suburb in the 1960s, and Robben Island is where Nelson Mandela and other ANC members were imprisoned during apartheid. You can have lunch at the iconic Mount Nelson Hotel (76 Orange St.; +27.21.483.1000; mountnelson.co.za), near the District Six Museum, and then head to the waterfront to catch the ferry to Robben Island. The two-and-half-hour island tours, which are led by former inmates, are extremely popular, so be sure to reserve in advance.

A fabulous option at sunset is to walk through the Bo-Kaap area, where the Cape Malay people (of Indonesian origin) settled. At Marco's African Place (15 Rose Lane; +27.21.423.5412; marcosafricanplace.co.za), the food is as authentic as the live bands that spice things up. For a memorable dinner, reserve a table at Gold, the courtyard restaurant in the historic Martin Melck House (96 Strand St., De Waterkant; +27 .21.405.1540), home to the Gold of Africa Museum (goldofafrica.com).The world's first museum dedicated to the history of African gold is set in a strikingly restored landmark building that literally dazzles, as it is filled with gold. Gold features tastings from all over Africa along with regional dance shows.

DAY 3

A fun way to spend a morning and get a sense of Africa's incredible crafts and arts is to visit the new Neighbourgoods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill. (9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.; 373-75 Albert Rd.; +27.21.448.1438; neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za). It opened less than two years ago, and in that time it's become a weekly ritual for many Capetonians. Browse the farmers' stalls outside for oysters and artisanal cheeses before visiting the shops in the refurbished Old Biscuit Mill complex. Heartworks (98 Kloof St., Gardens; +27.21.424.8419; and Gardens Centre,Mill St.; +27.21.465.3289) has an irresistible collection of local ceramics and crafts. Next door, Whatiftheworld(208 Albert Rd., Woodstock; +27.21.448.1438; whatiftheworld.com), a collective of artists' galleries that opened last year, draws international art lovers with surprisingly inexpensive works.

If you don't have time to overnight in the world-renowned wine towns of Franschhoek (franschhoek.org.za), Stellenbosch (stellenboschtourism.co.za) and Paarl (paarlonline.com),you can get a sense of their beauty and bounty closer. One of my favorite vinyards is the beautiful 300-year-old Klein Constantia (+27.21.794.5188; kleinconstantia. com) just a I5-minute drive from the city. Legend has it that on his deathbed Napoleon refused everything offered to him but a glass of his favorite sweet Constantia wine. At a tasting you can experience its golden color and smooth, lingering flavors. You'll also learn about the history of Cape Dutch architecture.

The best spot for lunch in the area is Constantia Uitsig (Spaanschemat River Road, Constantia; +27.21.794.6500; constantia-uitsig.com), a working vineyard with two restaurants. The more casual Uitsig (+27.21.794.4480) serves Italian cuisine with flair; La Colombe (+27.21.794.2390; constantia-uitsig.com/pages/restaurants/la-colombe.php), a formal French restaurant, has been voted the best restaurant in South Africa for the past two years.

If you want to relax after lunch, there's a new Clarins spa (+27.21.794.0433) on the property, and thanks to the exchange rate, you can indulge in a spa treatment for a fraction of the cost you would pay in the U.S.

For those who would rather shop than spa, the easiest one-stop option is the V&A Waterfront (+27.21.408.7.600; waterfront.co.za). Yes, it's a mall, but it's safe and offers a range of options, including Carrol Boyes and Pa Kua Design, which carry lots of contemporary African crafts and housewares.

It sounds touristy, but a sunset cruise with the stunning backdrop of the harbor and Table Mountain provides a special farewell flourish. Boats depart daily from the waterfront, but you can also charter a private yacht and request a wine tasting or champagne and local specialties such as crayfish braai. When you dock, the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront will be buzzing with revelers, jazz musicians and sailors, who all converge at dusk to play. For a relaxed but refined dinner, reserve a table at 95 Keerom (95 Keerom St.; +27.21.422.0765; 95keeromstreet.lagazzettadelsudafrica.net). Set in an elegantly restored 17th-century townhouse close to the Houses of Parliament and the Supreme Court, the restaurant has its own fishing boat and serves delicious food with a focus on local ingredients.

*****

Note from Roar Africa:
Cape Point is not in fact Africa's southernmost point. The southernmost point is Cape Agulhas which is about 90 miles (150km) Southeast of Cape Point.



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Thursday, March 12, 2009

One and Only Luxury Hotel, Cape Town

We're excited to introduce the One&Only luxury hotel group's latest addition: One&Only Cape Town, Opening April 3rd, 2009.

‘An urban chic waterfront resort with captivating views of Table Mountain and private spa island'


Situated in the heart of Cape Town’s picturesque Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, this contemporary urban resort embodies a chic island design and African flair. The crescent-shaped architecture of the seven-storey Marina Rise allows for splendid views of Table Mountain and Signal Hill from 91 spacious rooms and suites. Two lushly landscaped islands at the centre of the waterfront feature 40 Island Suites and the tranquil One&Only Spa.

Clean lines, dark African woods and contemporary artwork by local artisans accentuate the stylish, spacious accommodation – the largest in all of Cape Town. Each of the 91 rooms and suites within Marina Rise features expansive glass doors that lead onto private balconies which capture the drama of the magnificent mountain views. Click the photographs below for a closer look (photographs used with One&Only permission):


All rooms and suites are indulged by the discreet yet attentive services of a dedicated butler, 24-hours a day. The Presidential Suite looks spectacular:


The 1,200-square-meter One&Only Spa houses 11 Treatment Rooms and Two Vitality Pools, Sauna, Steam, Relaxation Areas, Full-service Salon, and Bastian Gonzales Mani:Pedi:Cure Studio. It also houses The City’s Most Comprehensive Spa Fitness Centre with State-of-the-art Equipment from Technogym® and Kinesis® Training Room, Free-formInfinity Edge Pool and a KidsOnly Club.

Dining is headlined by two world-renowned chefs: Gordon Ramsay for Maze and legendary Nobuyuki Matsuhisa for Nobu. The spectacular tri-level Wine Loft houses more than 5,000 bottles including popular and undiscovered South African vintages – the most magnificent collection of wines in the country.

Grand Opening Special: Stay for a minimum of 3 nights and up to 2 children stay for free! Enjoy 2 complimentary spa treatments and a bottle of Cape Estate Wine.

I'm looking forward to visiting One&Only Cape Town myself as soon as possible. In fact Geoff Calmeyer from Roar Africa will be making the first visit in the first week of opening. We'll report back.

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Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Hiking in South Africa: The Rim of Africa trail


"You're invited to join a walk of no ordinary proportions!"

That's what arrived in my inbox today; An invitation to be part of the inaugural hike of stage 1 of the Rim of Africa - a trail years in the making and following the natural ridge lines of mountain ranges in the Western Cape from the Cederberg to the Outeniqua.

The vision of the Rim of Africa is to "create a mega-distance trail on a par with the best the world has to offer". It is the first long-distance hiking initiative in South Africa and is based on, amongst others, the the Appalachian and Continental Divide trails in the USA. The route is a result of three years of work and reconnaissance by Ivan Groenhof, Galeo Saintz and volunteers. It stretches from the northern Cedarberg of the Cape's west coast to the Outeniqua Mountains of the Garden Route. 650 km of paths following natural lines and linking the regions biodiversity treasures, national parks, tourism destinations and communities like beads on an African necklace. It is hoped that the Rim of Africa will connect to the Outeniqua Trail and Eden to Addo hike thereby creating an extended 1,200 km trail. I suspect I'm not the first to wonder if it can't be extended further through Hogsback, the Drakensberg and onwards up to Swaziland.

The primary value of the Rim of Africa is to create a platform for transformative experiences in nature that directly link cultural practices to conservation. The initiative has been endorsed by the following conservation partners: CapeNature, Mountain Club of South Africa, The Cape Leopard Trust, and Eden to Addo Corridor initiative.

This is certainly a walk of "no ordinary proportion" and you might not have the time or inclination to embark on something of this magnitude. However every bead on this necklace will be a memorable experience so if you are outdoors-inclined don't forget to explore beyond the beaten path. South Africa has incredible hiking opportunities. Better yet be part of the inaugural hike starting April 12th.

3/11/9 Postscript: Received from Ivan Groenhof: "Just a small but important change. We have moved the Inaugural Rim of Africa Mountain Passage forward due to “Voting Day” so the new date is the 23rd April to the 3rd May covering the entire Cederberg and the first 3rd of the rouged Skurfteberg. "

For more information go to: Rim of Africa

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Botswana: Amazing Elephant drinking trick

A BBC Team has captured a herd of elephants' clever trunk trick in the Kalahari. Instead of wading into the water - as is typical for elephants- this herd has learned amazing control. When faced with limited water in a stagnant pond they have learned to restrain themselves, enter the water gingerly and use their trunks to skim the surface for the freshest water.

The video was captured by Mike Holding for the show "Nature's Great Events: The Great Flood", which follows the annual flooding of Botswana's Okavango Delta, where, for a limited time, the surrounding desert is transformed into a lush wetland.

Watch the video clip narrated by David Attenborough on the BBC website here and another clever elephant drinking trick captured in the Kruger Park on this blog, here.

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Wednesday, March 4, 2009

South Africa's Sardine Run; The Great Tide

If you enjoyed last year's post on "The Great Migration - But Underwater" you may be interested in watching the remarkable footage "Nature's Great Events: The Great Tide" being aired on BBC One tonight at 2100 GMT (and repeated on Sunday at 1800 GMT). I assume those without BBC One will be able to access this show in due course on DVD or possibly on BBC One's live online broadcast.

"Nature's Great Events: The Great Tide" produced by Hugh Pearson and narrated by David Attenborough covers the feeding frenzy of thousands of sharks, whales, dolphins, gannets and other predators on millions of sardines migrating northwards along the South African coast. Absolutely fantastic footage of this event has been captured by Underwater cameraman Didier Noirot. Particularly interesting has been the insight into how squadrons of Gannets, after diving to a depth of 10m (30ft), join the other predators and swim to pursue the sardines to a depth of 20m (60ft). For more on this show including some incredible video clips to whet your appetite see today's BBC story here.

Witness this yourself:
The event occurs most years but is dependent on the alignment of a number of natural factors including rainfall and ocean temperature. ROAR Africa partners with the expert dive operation who pioneered the Sardine Run; Blue Wilderness. If you're interested in witnessing this remarkable event here is some detail on a trip we can arrange for you:

Video from "azuloceano".



Timing:
Best date to target: June 18th (arrival) through June 25th (departure)
6 days of diving and ocean activity. If you picked another week to be available you'd be best choosing the preceding week.

Destination:
East London as the operating base rather than KwaZulu-Natal or Transkei. The week before we'll check in and may re-route you up the coast to Coffee Bay (by car), Port St Johns (private air charter), Port Edward (via flight to Durban). This can also be done at a moments notice during the week.

Operators:
Blue Wilderness. These are the pioneers, the makers of the Blue Planet series, and the experts who we work with.

Chance of Success:
Surprisingly high. Maybe even 80-90%. Even though people say the run has not happened for quite a few of the past 7 years this is not entirely accurate. What that means is it hasn't happened on a massive scale. Blue Wilderness has had great success catching smaller sardine events every year except the only "flop" year which was 2003. That is only a flop from a sardine perspective. There is plenty to do and see. The biomass has been lower during the last 7 years mostly due to drought (one of the parameters is food from runoff/rivers) which broke last year.

Other diving options (non-sardine diving):
Cape Town: offers interesting diving. Kelp dives, wreck dives, shark diving. June is not a good time of year for Pelagic species diving in Cape Town but it is prime for Great White breaching. I say breaching specifically. This occurs during a limited time of year and in a certain area only.
KwaZulu-Natal: near Durban: great time of year for both Raggies (Ragged Tooth Sharks) and Tiger sharks on Aliwal Shoal.
Mozambique: Excellent time for Whale Sharks and Manta Rays in Mozambique. Tofu is a good destination.
Madagascar: Good time for Whale Sharks and whales.

Of course there are plenty of other non-diving activities that ROAR Africa can include in a trip. In fact you could witness a double-migration. This is a good time to witness the great migration of herbivores while on safari in Botswana.

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